What markers track skin hydration?
Skin hydration is tracked by corneometry, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and other biophysical markers. This page reviews the research on compounds and formulations studied for their effects on these markers, includin
What markers track skin hydration?
Skin hydration is most commonly tracked by measuring stratum corneum water content (often via corneometry) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), a marker of barrier function. Secondary markers include skin elasticity, inflammatory cytokines, and clinical scoring of dryness or xerosis. These markers are used in both preclinical and clinical research to evaluate interventions intended to support skin hydration.
The work centres on the skin barrier and extracellular matrix, with pathways involving oxidative stress, collagen synthesis, and inflammatory signalling.
Research Studies
Ergothioneine and oxidative stress biomarkers in healthy adults
A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial is evaluating NVTIA® Ergothioneine, a branded ergothioneine ingredient, in healthy adults aged 40 to 65 years. Participants receive either the ingredient or a matching placebo once daily for 12 weeks. The primary objective is to assess effects on biomarkers associated with oxidative stress and healthy aging. Secondary objectives include skin elasticity, skin hydration, inflammatory biomarkers, and overall safety [1].
AP collagen peptides and skin hydration in a mouse model of atopic dermatitis
In a study using hairless mice with oxazolone-induced atopic dermatitis-like skin, researchers evaluated AP collagen peptide (APCP), which contains collagen tripeptide (CTP). The study assessed skin hydration and transepidermal water loss, along with inflammatory responses. The model exhibits impaired skin barrier function and Th2-mediated immune responses, characteristic of atopic dermatitis [2].
Fish collagen hydrolysates and wound healing: a patent review
A patent review examined fish collagen hydrolysates in wound healing. The review notes that collagen peptides derived from hydrolysis have gained attention for bioactive properties, and fish collagen has become prominent due to its favorable profile compared to traditional sources. The wound healing process can be delayed by factors such as bacterial contamination, irritation from dressings, and internal conditions like diabetes [3].
Oral collagen supplementation and skin health: a narrative review
A narrative review summarized and critically evaluated human evidence on oral collagen supplementation for skin, hair, nails, and wound healing. Collagen is a key structural protein of the skin, essential for mechanical strength, elasticity, and hydration. The review found that evidence regarding effectiveness remains heterogeneous [4].
L-Carnosine-containing hyaluronate injection and facial skin hydration
A randomized, controlled, evaluator-blinded trial assessed the efficacy and safety of an L-carnosine-containing hyaluronate injection for facial skin hydration and brightness [5].
Topical formulation with panthenol, niacinamide, and dipotassium glycyrrhizate in xerosis
A 28-day randomized, split-leg, untreated-controlled trial evaluated a topical formulation containing panthenol, niacinamide, and dipotassium glycyrrhizate in individuals with xerosis cutis. Subjects applied the test emollient twice daily to one pretibial area, with the contralateral leg as untreated control. Assessments included skin hydration and barrier function [6].
Ariessence™ Pure PDGF+ following ablative laser
A post-market cosmetic evaluation is studying Ariessence™ Pure PDGF+, a viscous leave-on solution for topical application to the face after ablative laser procedures. The study compares it to an emollient control, with outcomes including procedure tolerability and skin appearance, including hydration [7].
Cellbooster® Shape and skin hydration in healthy subjects
A post-market clinical investigation is evaluating Cellbooster® Shape (CBS), a CE-marked hyaluronic acid-based injectable filler and skinbooster containing non-crosslinked HA with L-carnitine and vitamin C. The product is designed to reduce local puffiness by improving microcirculation and hydration. Healthy subjects with signs of facial skin aging receive a 3-session treatment and are followed for 70 days. Objective measurements of skin hydration are among the outcomes [8].
Reference-only findings on topical formulations and devices
Several reference-only studies support the broader context. A study developed a structurally stable skin-brightening moisturizing cream using hydroxyethyl cellulose as a functional polymer additive with niacinamide as the active ingredient [9]. A pilot study investigated the long-term effects of a hydrogel facial mask based on poly(N-vinyl pyrrolidone) and poly(ethylene glycol) on hydration, barrier function, and mechanical properties in sensitive skin [10]. A spectroscopic and molecular interaction analysis characterized pentapeptide-18 as an anti-aging candidate, noting that skin aging involves breakdown of the dermal extracellular matrix [11]. A retrospective study reported clinical outcomes of intense pulsed light combined with non-crosslinked sodium hyaluronate, tranexamic acid, and vitamin C mesotherapy for facial photoaging [12].
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Sources
- [1] NVTIA® Ergothioneine for Healthy Aging and Skin Health
- [2] Potential Supportive Effects of AP Collagen Peptides on Skin Hydration in a Mouse Model of Oxazolone-Induced Atopic Dermatitis
- [3] Fish Collagen Hydrolysates in Wound Healing: A Patent Review
- [4] Dietary Collagen Supplementation as a Strategy for Skin Health: A Narrative Review of Clinical Effects on Skin, Hair, Nails, and Wound Healing
- [5] Efficacy and Safety of L‐Carnosine‐Containing Hyaluronate Injection for Facial Skin Hydration and Brightness: A Randomized, Controlled, Evaluator‐Blinded Trial
- [6] Efficacy of a Topical Formulation on Skin Hydration and Barrier Function in Individuals With Xerosis: A 28-Day Randomized, Split-Leg, Untreated-Controlled Trial
- [7] Post-market Cosmetic Evaluation of Ariessence™ Pure PDGF+ Following Ablative Laser
- [8] Effectiveness and Safety of Cellbooster Shape in Healthy Subjects
- [9] Intermolecular network reorganization induced by hydroxyethyl cellulose enables structurally stable niacinamide-based soft matter systems
- [10] Hydrogel facial mask for sensitive skin: A pilot study of long-term effects on hydration, barrier function and mechanical properties
- [11] Pentapeptide-18 as an anti-aging candidate: Spectroscopic characterization and molecular interaction analysis
- [12] Clinical outcomes of intense pulsed light combined with non-crosslinked sodium hyaluronate, tranexamic acid, and vitamin C mesotherapy for facial photoaging: a retrospective study