How Skin Hydration Changes with Age
A research summary of how skin hydration and barrier function change with age, covering collagen peptides, ergothioneine, hyaluronate and topical formulations studied in human and animal models.
Skin hydration is the water content of the stratum corneum and underlying epidermis, maintained by the interplay of corneocyte-bound water, natural moisturizing factor, intercellular lipids, and the cornified envelope. In the research literature it is measured as stratum corneum hydration (often by corneometry) alongside transepidermal water loss (TEWL), which indexes barrier function; the two are reported together because reduced hydration and increased TEWL frequently co-occur in aged or compromised skin. Xerosis cutis is the clinical descriptor for the dry, barrier-impaired state, characterized by impaired epidermal barrier function, increased TEWL, reduced hydration, and symptoms such as pruritus [6].
The work summarized here centres on the dermal extracellular matrix and the epidermal barrier: collagen and collagen-derived peptides, hyaluronic acid and its salts, and small-molecule actives such as niacinamide, panthenol, carnosine and ergothioneine, studied through oral supplementation, topical application, and injectable skinboosters.
Research Studies
Oral collagen peptides and skin hydration in a mouse model of atopic dermatitis
Atopic dermatitis is a chronic, relapsing inflammatory skin disorder characterized by impaired barrier function and Th2-mediated immune responses. In an oxazolone-induced AD-like model using hairless mice, AP collagen peptide (APCP), which contains collagen tripeptide (CTP), was evaluated for effects on skin hydration and inflammatory responses. Skin hydration and transepidermal water loss were among the measured outcomes [2]. This is an animal model; findings in hairless mice do not establish effects in humans.
Oral collagen supplementation and skin, hair, nail and wound outcomes in humans
A narrative review summarized and critically evaluated the human evidence on oral collagen supplementation, particularly collagen peptides, for skin health, hair and nail quality, and wound healing. Collagen is a key structural protein of the skin, essential for mechanical strength, elasticity and hydration. The review reported that the evidence regarding effectiveness remains heterogeneous [4].
Fish collagen hydrolysates in wound healing
A patent review examined collagen peptides derived from collagen hydrolysis as bioactive materials in advanced wound dressings, noting that fish collagen has gained prominence relative to traditional sources. The review framed these peptides in the context of dressings that protect the wound while promoting healing, and noted that healing can be delayed by bacterial contamination, dressing irritation, and internal conditions such as diabetes [3].
Ergothioneine and skin hydration in healthy adults aged 40 to 65
A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial is evaluating NVTIA® Ergothioneine, a branded ergothioneine ingredient, in healthy adults aged 40 to 65 years. Participants receive the ingredient or a matching placebo once daily for 12 weeks. The primary objective is to evaluate effects on biomarkers associated with oxidative stress and healthy aging; secondary objectives include skin elasticity, skin hydration, inflammatory biomarkers, and overall safety [1]. This is a registered trial; results are not yet reported in the evidence summarized here.
L-carnosine-containing hyaluronate injection and facial skin hydration
A randomized, controlled, evaluator-blinded trial assessed the efficacy and safety of an L-carnosine-containing hyaluronate injection for facial skin hydration and brightness [5].
Hyaluronic acid skinbooster with L-carnitine and vitamin C in healthy subjects
Cellbooster® Shape (CBS) is a CE-marked hyaluronic acid-based superficial epidermis/dermis injection filler and skinbooster produced using patented CHAC Technology. It consists of non-crosslinked HA with L-carnitine and vitamin C, and is designed for reducing local puffiness by improving microcirculation and hydration. A post-market clinical investigation is evaluating efficacy and safety in healthy subjects with signs of facial skin aging who receive a 3-session treatment and are followed for 70 days after the initial injection session, with several objective measurements of skin [8].
Topical panthenol, niacinamide and dipotassium glycyrrhizate in xerosis
A randomized, intra-individual, split-leg trial enrolled subjects with xerosis who applied a test emollient containing panthenol, niacinamide, and dipotassium glycyrrhizate twice daily for 28 days to one pretibial area, with the contralateral leg left untreated as control. Assessments were performed at baseline and subsequent timepoints, evaluating efficacy, tolerability, and subjective perception in dry, sensitive skin [6].
PDGF-containing topical solution following ablative laser
Ariessence™ Pure PDGF+ is a viscous, leave-on solution designed for topical application to the face following non-medical cosmetic procedures performed by licensed healthcare professionals, intended to enhance comfort and maintain skin hydration. A multi-center, post-market cosmetic evaluation is assessing application to the full face after an ablative laser procedure, comparing improvements in procedure tolerability and appearance of the skin against an emollient control [7].
Comparison of study designs and hydration-relevant endpoints
| Intervention | Model / population | Design | Hydration-relevant endpoint |
|---|---|---|---|
| AP collagen peptide (CTP) | Hairless mice, oxazolone-induced AD-like | Animal model | Skin hydration, TEWL [2] |
| Oral collagen peptides | Human (reviewed studies) | Narrative review | Skin, hair, nail, wound outcomes [4] |
| NVTIA® Ergothioneine | Healthy adults 40–65 | Randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, 12 weeks | Secondary: skin hydration, elasticity [1] |
| L-carnosine + hyaluronate injection | Human, facial | Randomized, controlled, evaluator-blinded | Skin hydration, brightness [5] |
| Cellbooster® Shape (HA + L-carnitine + vitamin C) | Healthy subjects with facial aging signs | Post-market clinical investigation, 3 sessions, 70-day follow-up | Microcirculation and hydration [8] |
| Panthenol + niacinamide + dipotassium glycyrrhizate | Subjects with xerosis | Randomized, split-leg, untreated-controlled, 28 days | Hydration, barrier function, TEWL [6] |
| Ariessence™ Pure PDGF+ | Post-ablative laser, full face | Multi-center, post-market, emollient-controlled | Maintenance of skin hydration [7] |
Supporting evidence on formulation and delivery
Additional work in this area has examined how formulation chemistry affects hydration outcomes. One study developed a structurally stable skin-brightening moisturizing cream by incorporating hydroxyethyl cellulose as a functional polymer additive, with niacinamide as the active ingredient, and systematically characterized the physicochemical properties and performance of the formulations [9]. A pilot study investigated the safety, tolerability and functional performance of a hydrogel facial mask based on poly(N-vinyl pyrrolidone) and poly(ethylene glycol) in sensitive skin, examining long-term effects on hydration, barrier function and mechanical properties [10]. Spectroscopic characterization and molecular interaction analysis of pentapeptide-18 has been reported as an anti-aging candidate, in the context of dermal extracellular matrix breakdown, wrinkle development from repetitive facial muscle movements, and gradual reduction in collagen and elastin synthesis [11]. A retrospective study reported clinical outcomes of intense pulsed light combined with non-crosslinked sodium hyaluronate, tranexamic acid, and vitamin C mesotherapy for facial photoaging, a condition involving structural and functional deterioration across multiple skin layers [12].
If you are reading this for personal health reasons
The materials described on this page are sold for laboratory research use only. We do not provide dosing information or medical guidance, and nothing here should be taken as a recommendation for personal use. Anyone considering a compound for themselves should speak to a licensed clinician.
Sources
- [1] NVTIA® Ergothioneine for Healthy Aging and Skin Health
- [2] Potential Supportive Effects of AP Collagen Peptides on Skin Hydration in a Mouse Model of Oxazolone-Induced Atopic Dermatitis
- [3] Fish Collagen Hydrolysates in Wound Healing: A Patent Review
- [4] Dietary Collagen Supplementation as a Strategy for Skin Health: A Narrative Review
- [5] Efficacy and Safety of L‐Carnosine‐Containing Hyaluronate Injection for Facial Skin Hydration and Brightness
- [6] Efficacy of a Topical Formulation on Skin Hydration and Barrier Function in Individuals With Xerosis
- [7] Post-market Cosmetic Evaluation of Ariessence™ Pure PDGF+ Following Ablative Laser
- [8] Effectiveness and Safety of Cellbooster Shape in Healthy Subjects
- [9] Intermolecular network reorganization induced by hydroxyethyl cellulose enables structurally stable niacinamide-based soft matter systems
- [10] Hydrogel facial mask for sensitive skin: A pilot study of long-term effects on hydration, barrier function and mechanical properties
- [11] Pentapeptide-18 as an anti-aging candidate: Spectroscopic characterization and molecular interaction analysis
- [12] Clinical outcomes of intense pulsed light combined with non-crosslinked sodium hyaluronate, tranexamic acid, and vitamin C mesotherapy for facial photoaging